May 23, 2012

Budget Beach Time on the Central Coast

My heart wants to write this post. It wants to tell the world about the most amazing place. My head keeps telling me not to. It wants me to keep this all to myself.

In a pure moment of weakness, here it goes. My secret will now be out in the world for a ridiculously affordable weekend in one of the most beautiful places.

Highway 1, Monterey, Carmel - they all conjure images of crystal blue water, striking ocean cliffs, cream colored sand and delicious seafood. When I hear or see those things, dollar signs immediately start flashing across my eyelids. It all sounds so wonderful, but is there really a way to stay and play near the ocean on a budget?

The answer is a resounding YES. As long as your budget affords you a mid-priced hotel room. We are in California here, people.

Where to Stay

Avoid the crowded streets and high budget hotels in Monterey and Carmel and head to Pacific Grove, a small town nestled between the two more famous towns. Tucked along the ocean off Sunset Drive, you will find the Asilomar State Beach and Conference Grounds. Asilomar means "refuge by the sea" and this 107 acre oasis is just that.


The Visitor's Lodge by Julia Morgan
Neatly arranged Arts & Crafts style buildings dot the hillside leading straight down to the sand dunes and the ocean. The bell rings at 7:30 a.m. to mark the beginning of the complimentary on-site breakfast in the dining hall (and you won't believe the number of people leaving their rooms right at the bell - Pavlov would be proud). The sound of crashing ocean waves puts you to sleep and greets you first thing in the morning. It's pure bliss in a cozy, rustic space.

Boardwalk through the sand dunes
Originally built by the YWCA in 1913 as their western leadership conference grounds, nine of the buildings - including the social and dining halls - were designed and built by Bay Area famed architect Julia Morgan. It is still a conference center, but also open to regular visitors and guests. Rooms vary in size and price, but this ocean front property is a spectacular deal.

The sunsets from the boardwalk are incredible and remind me of my evenings in Santorini.

Sunset from the Asilomar
Next year marks the 100-year celebration for the Asilomar and in my recent visit it was apparent that upgrades were being made throughout the grounds. My dream job is a recreational director here - I would love nothing more in life than to take people on ocean walks, forest hikes and winding bike rides in this beautiful place.

How to Spend Your Time on a Dime 


Speaking of ocean walks and bike rides - here is a not-so-secret, secret. The famously breathtaking 17-mile drive is free for cyclists and walkers/runners. Motorists pay $10 a car to enter one of the most scenic drives in the country, but on foot or wheels, you can cruise on in for free.

The 17 Mile Drive at Mile 6
The 17-mile drive is famous for its ocean views, seal and bird viewing and access to the world-renowned Pebble Beach golf course. Along the way, you will find an abundance of plants, animals and views to numerable to capture.

From the Asilomar, the Pacific Grove Gate entrance to the 17-mile drive is a short uphill walk on Sunset Drive. For walkers and runners, the path is a dream. A gravel pathway straddles the road for the first five miles keeping you off the road and saving your knees from the pavement. Bikers have a true bike lane for almost the first five miles and after that you share the winding, narrow road.

Ocean view from the walking path on the 17-mile drive
The first five miles of the drive takes you past Point Joe, Bird Rock and many other view and picnic points. Truly heaven on earth. And, it doesn't cost you a thing.

When you go


  • Be prepared for all climates. The ocean fog can roll in thick in this area so night and morning temperatures can be chilly
  • Go to bed early. The free breakfast only goes from 7:30-9:00 a.m!
  • Bikes can be rented at the Asilomar Store if you don't bring your own
  • There is one main restaurant in walking distance to the Asilomar. Fishwife is a small, family joint with great chowder and what looked like killer calamari

My weekend at the Asilomar was so uncrowded, peaceful and refreshing that I'd wish it on anyone. How about we keep this between us though?





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